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    <title type="text">Feline Pine Forums</title>
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    <rights>Copyright (c) 2008</rights>
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    <entry>
      <title>Trying to Find Kitten Food</title>
      <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.naturesearth.com/forums/viewthread/175/" />      
      <id>tag:naturesearth.com,2008:forums/viewthread/.175</id>
      <published>2008-11-17T13:50:56Z</published>
      <updated></updated>
      <author><name>neko</name></author>
      <content type="html">
      <![CDATA[
        <p>I am so frustrated with trying to find a decent canned kitten food...apparently nobody in this town cares what their kitten eats because the best kitten food I can find is Science Diet...which has a lot of fillers.&nbsp; We have four different store chains and they all carry the same garbage.&nbsp; What is the point of having four stores if the inventory is all the same???&nbsp; Anyway, I ordered Felidae canned cat food online...bought half a case to start with. I was wondering if anybody here feeds it to their kitten/cat and if their cats like it?
</p>
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    </entry>

    <entry>
      <title>Aural Hematoma</title>
      <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.naturesearth.com/forums/viewthread/173/" />      
      <id>tag:naturesearth.com,2008:forums/viewthread/.173</id>
      <published>2008-11-06T10:38:57Z</published>
      <updated></updated>
      <author><name>LisaLoftis</name></author>
      <content type="html">
      <![CDATA[
        <p>My old girl Emily (11) contracted ear mites on the verge of a move to Memphis from Chicago (where she was one of Dr. Gaspar&#8217;s former patients along with our other two!) We moved, and scheduled an appt. with a local vet to deal with the mites and before her appt. she has evidently shaken her head so hard that the emergency cat center diagnosed an Aural Hematoma last night when we discovered it.&nbsp; We upped our vet appt. to this afternoon but after research I am finding that a very expensive surgery is often the treatment, and expensive is one thing we can&#8217;t afford.&nbsp; :(  Also, given Em&#8217;s age and history of obesity it doesn&#8217;t seem she&#8217;s a great candidate for that anyhow.
</p>
<p>
Is Prednisone treatment a reasonable thing to ask the vet to discuss as a first step in treating this?&nbsp; I&#8217;m apprehensive because its a brand new vet and with the exception of Dr. Gaspar I&#8217;ve found veterinary offices to be very black and white with treatments and often unwilling to take a treatment in stages.
</p>
<p>
Lisa
</p>
      ]]>
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    </entry>

    <entry>
      <title>My Cat Eats Everything!</title>
      <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.naturesearth.com/forums/viewthread/172/" />      
      <id>tag:naturesearth.com,2008:forums/viewthread/.172</id>
      <published>2008-11-05T17:20:32Z</published>
      <updated></updated>
      <author><name>GoofyMcKitterson</name></author>
      <content type="html">
      <![CDATA[
        <p>Kitters eats everything. He&#8217;s been getting into the cupboards and tearing into noodles, chips, cookies, crackers, everything! I feed him the suggested amount of food everyday but he wants more immediately after he eats everything in his bowl. His weight is fine. He even broke into my dresser to get his emergency-in case the budget is non-existant wet rations. Should I take him to the vet?
</p>
      ]]>
      </content>
    </entry>

    <entry>
      <title>Finding a canned food my cats will eat</title>
      <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.naturesearth.com/forums/viewthread/164/" />      
      <id>tag:naturesearth.com,2008:forums/viewthread/.164</id>
      <published>2008-10-03T23:36:51Z</published>
      <updated></updated>
      <author><name>AKgirl</name></author>
      <content type="html">
      <![CDATA[
        <p>i have two neutered males, Puck, 12 yo and Hazel, 11mo.&nbsp; Puck used to be an indoor/outdoor cat and  Hazel has not been outside since i found him dumped in snowbank at about 4wks old.&nbsp; now both are exclusively indoor cats.&nbsp; After a year of being inside though, Puck has ballooned to 18lbs and i do not want Hazel to go in that direction, too.&nbsp; after research, i switched to Purina Pro Plan weight maintenance kibble (free fed)  since it was high in protein and a couple of tablespoons of Purina canned twice a day.&nbsp; i recently started using feline pine litter and after reading the forums and articles on the website, i am changing foods for the guys.&nbsp; however, they HATE both Evo and Wellness canned food that Dr Gaspar suggested.&nbsp; they will eat the Fancy Feast chunky turkey, but are not crazy about it.&nbsp; they will eat the Evo kibble, but again are not crazy over it, either.&nbsp; i have stopped filling the bowl with kibble, attributing the weight gain to boredom eating; i have fed about 1/4 cup in the last 3 or 4 days.&nbsp; also, they always have fresh water.
<br />
my vet would like to see Puck lose weight, however he did not seem that concerned over it, since Puck is a naturally large cat.&nbsp; the two of them do play together, so both are getting exercise, although not as much as if they were outside in the woods.&nbsp; 
<br />
so,  a few questions:&nbsp; since i am not sure if they get bored with only one flavor, if the guys will only eat Fancy Feast chunky turkey ( i am unable to find chunky chicken in my area), is it okay that that is all they eat, along with a bit of kibble?&nbsp; is the Purina Pro Plan kibble i was feeding too crummy a diet?&nbsp; i know i cannot starve them into submission, but how long do i hold out before going back to the canned food i know they will eat?&nbsp; how much weight loss is okay over how long of a span of time?&nbsp;   
<br />
i welcome any suggestions.
</p>
      ]]>
      </content>
    </entry>

    <entry>
      <title>Feeding</title>
      <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.naturesearth.com/forums/viewthread/151/" />      
      <id>tag:naturesearth.com,2008:forums/viewthread/.151</id>
      <published>2008-08-23T18:22:03Z</published>
      <updated></updated>
      <author><name>springshm</name></author>
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      <![CDATA[
        <p><img src="http://www.dev.naturesearth.com/images/smileys/confused.gif" width="19" height="19" alt="confused" style="border:0;" /> I have 2 ferile cats I adopted, one is a black and white slinky style he is nearly 3, his playmate is a tiger striped brown lady with adorable eyes who is nearly 2.&nbsp; Problem is I have always fed them Fancy Feast Elegant Medleys ( because that is all they would eat, (no inexpensive food for them) they also have fresh dry food on the side and fresh water daily.&nbsp; In the last few weeks they have decided they will only eat certain flavours of the Elegant Medleys, should I buy just chicken and tuna and cook that for them instead since they have become so finicky they only eat 2 cans between them a day and some of the dry, plus I give them treats before and after I come home from work.&nbsp; Neither of them are over weight.&nbsp; They have their shots and have been fixed.&nbsp; Should I be worried and take them to our vet?
</p>
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    </entry>

    <entry>
      <title>To declaw or not&#63;&#63;</title>
      <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.naturesearth.com/forums/viewthread/14/" />      
      <id>tag:naturesearth.com,2008:forums/viewthread/.14</id>
      <published>2008-03-07T15:07:48Z</published>
      <updated></updated>
      <author><name>Jessica Ryan</name></author>
      <content type="html">
      <![CDATA[
        <p>Hello everyone.
</p>
<p>
This is a very touchy subject for most cat people, but, without giving my thoughts, what do you all think?? You all have cats or know people that have cats and I would like a wide range of answers. In a week or so I´ll post my thoughts unless there´s a lot coming in. <img src="http://www.dev.naturesearth.com/images/smileys/smile.gif" width="19" height="19" alt="smile" style="border:0;" />
</p>
<p>
Thanks.
</p>
      ]]>
      </content>
    </entry>

    <entry>
      <title>Kitty First Aid Kit</title>
      <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.naturesearth.com/forums/viewthread/72/" />      
      <id>tag:naturesearth.com,2008:forums/viewthread/.72</id>
      <published>2008-03-11T23:59:23Z</published>
      <updated></updated>
      <author><name>Kris Janyk</name></author>
      <content type="html">
      <![CDATA[
        <p>Everyone who shares a home with a cat should have on hand a basic feline first-aid kit. 
<br />
A good pet first-aid book
<br />
Phone Numbers:
<br />
Veterinarian
<br />
The nearest emergency veterinary clinic
<br />
A poison-control center or hotline
<br />
Paperwork:
<br />
Proof of rabies vaccination status
<br />
Copies of other important medical records
<br />
Rectal thermometer (your cat&#8217;s temperature should not rise above 103°F or fall below 100°F)
<br />
Sterile gauze rolls and pads for bandages
<br />
Adhesive tape
<br />
Hydrogen peroxide
<br />
Tweezers
<br />
Petroleum jelly
<br />
Antiseptic lotion, powder, or spray
<br />
A pillowcase to confine your cat for treatment
<br />
A carrier
<br />
Cotton balls or swabs
<br />
Splints and tongue depressors
<br />
Towels
<br />
A muzzle or strips of cotton to prevent biting
<br />
Penlight or flashlight
<br />
Scissors
<br />
Needle-nosed pliers
<br />
Ice pack
<br />
Plastic eyedropper or syringe
<br />
Sterile saline solution
<br />
Latex gloves
<br />
Ear-cleaning solution
<br />
Nail clippers
</p>
<p>
All info from <a href="http://www.hsus.org">http://www.hsus.org</a>
</p>
      ]]>
      </content>
    </entry>

    <entry>
      <title>Detecting Illness in Your Cat</title>
      <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.naturesearth.com/forums/viewthread/67/" />      
      <id>tag:naturesearth.com,2008:forums/viewthread/.67</id>
      <published>2008-03-11T23:53:44Z</published>
      <updated></updated>
      <author><name>Kris Janyk</name></author>
      <content type="html">
      <![CDATA[
        <p>Cats can&#8217;t tell us where or when it hurts. In fact, many animals will try to mask pain or illness. That&#8217;s why it is extremely important that you get to know your cat&#8217;s regular habits and behaviors. Any deviation from his or her normal behavior could indicate a problem with his or her health. Some symptoms and behaviors are obvious: diarrhea, vomiting, coughing, sneezing, runny nose or eyes, and trouble using the litter box. There are other, more subtle, physical and behavioral signs that might indicate a trip to the vet is in order. Take note if your cat does any of the following:
</p>
<p>
Misses more than one meal
<br />
Shows a sudden change in eating habits
<br />
Stops using the litter box
<br />
Develops puffiness or a lump under the skin
<br />
Hides for more than a day
<br />
Becomes suddenly short-tempered or intolerant of attention
<br />
Shakes his head frequently
<br />
Changes his routine or loses interest in his favorite games
<br />
Stops grooming
</p>
<p>
All information from <a href="http://www.hsus.org">http://www.hsus.org</a>
</p>
      ]]>
      </content>
    </entry>

    <entry>
      <title>DO YOU KNOW WHAT&#8217;S IN YOUR PET&#8217;S FOOD&#63;&#63;&#63;&#63;</title>
      <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.naturesearth.com/forums/viewthread/33/" />      
      <id>tag:naturesearth.com,2008:forums/viewthread/.33</id>
      <published>2008-03-11T00:43:18Z</published>
      <updated></updated>
      <author><name>Kris Janyk</name></author>
      <content type="html">
      <![CDATA[
        <p>Hi everyone. Just a little heads up on pet nutrition. What you feed your pet can effect it&#8217;s health and well being. You&#8217;d be surprised what&#8217;s really in your Dog or Cat&#8217;s food. I see so many pets with allergies (usually from wheat, corn, or soy) and poor skin and coat and it&#8217;s usually all because of their diet. 
<br />
Your best foods to feed your pets are that human grade or organic foods. The ingredients and the quality of the ingredients matter! You wouldn&#8217;t eat junk food everyday for every meal so don&#8217;t feed it to your kitty. 
<br />
When you see chicken, beef, etc. on a non human grade food that meat came from an animal that was denied for human consumption. Which means it was either DISABLED, DISEASED, DYING, OR DEAD (known as the 4D&#8217;s). Now I don&#8217;t know about you but I would not feed my pets something like that. Also we see by-products. These are parts of the animal that are considered inedible such as beaks, feet, necks, intestines, etc.. Also several foods are full of fillers such as corn. Dogs and cats can not digest this&#8230; 
<br />
Most people&#8217;s concern about switching foods is the cost. Don&#8217;t let price fool you. You end up spending more on your grocery store food in the long run. Here&#8217;s why. In your lower grade foods they are full of fillers. Therefore your pet must eat much more food to digest the amount of nutrients they need. Which equals more food and more waste. In your high quality foods the pet will eat less to become satisfied. Also they digest more of there foods which means less food and yes smaller poops! It&#8217;s true! 
<br />
I used to feed my pets a medium grade food before I found out more about pet nutrition. One of mys  dogs suffered from skin allergies, bad dander, and would even chew her tail until the fur would fall off. I switched to a human grade high quality food and within a month my dogs&#8217; coats became shiny and dander free. My dog would no longer scratch or chew her tail. Now all the hair that was missing on her tail grew back and her coat is softer than ever! Also the size of their waste is almost 2/3 smaller. 
</p>
<p>
Lets help our pets stay healthy. Find a human grade food with no wheat, corn, soy, artificial flavors or colors, no preservatives, gluten-free, and no by-products! Go ahead read what&#8217;s on the label of your pets food.
</p>
      ]]>
      </content>
    </entry>

    <entry>
      <title>What You Should Know about Flea and Tick Products</title>
      <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.naturesearth.com/forums/viewthread/47/" />      
      <id>tag:naturesearth.com,2008:forums/viewthread/.47</id>
      <published>2008-03-11T01:40:09Z</published>
      <updated></updated>
      <author><name>Kris Janyk</name></author>
      <content type="html">
      <![CDATA[
        <p>Protecting your pet from fleas and ticks is an important part of caring for your pet responsibly. Although there are many brands of over-the-counter flea and tick products available at supermarkets and pet supply stores, it is critical to read their labels, and consult with your veterinarian, before using them on your companion. These products may contain ingredients that could harm pets and children.
</p>
<p>
In November 2000, the Natural Resources Defense Council (NRDC) released a report called Poisons on Pets: Health Hazards from Flea and Tick Products. The report demonstrated a link between chemicals commonly used in flea and tick products and serious health problems.
</p>
<p>
The Chemicals
</p>
<p>
The ingredients to be wary of are organophosphate insecticides (OPs) and carbamates, both of which are found in various flea and tick products. A product contains an OP if the ingredient list contains chlorpyrifos, dichlorvos, phosmet, naled, tetrachlorvinphos, diazinon, or malathion. If the ingredient list includes carbaryl or propoxur, the product contains a carbamate. According to the NRDC, the potential dangers posed by these products are greatest for children and pets. There is reason to be concerned about long-term, cumulative exposures as well as combined exposures from the use of other products containing OPs and carbamates.
</p>
<p>
The Products
</p>
<p>
The NRDC&#8217;s report lists flea- and tick-control products marketed under the following major brand names that have been found to contain OPs: Alco, Americare, Beaphar, Double Duty, Ford&#8217;s Freedom Five, Happy Jack, Hartz, Hopkins, Kill-Ko, Protection, Rabon, Riverdale, Sergeant&#8217;s, Unicorn, Vet-Kem, Victory, and Zema. To protect their pets and children, consumers should consult with a veterinarian before purchasing over-the-counter (OTC) products.
</p>
<p>
The Effects
</p>
<p>
According to the NRDC, there are studies that show OPs and carbamates can harm the nervous system. Children can be especially vulnerable because their nervous systems are still developing. For pets, the data is limited, but according to NRDC, many companion animals appear to have been injured or killed through exposure to pet products containing OPs. Cats are particularly vulnerable, since they often lack enzymes for metabolizing or detoxifying OPs and can ingest OPs by licking their fur.
</p>
<p>
What about the EPA?
</p>
<p>
Each year, millions of Americans purchase over-the-counter flea and tick products believing that they couldn&#8217;t be sold unless they were proven safe. But the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) did not begin to review pet products for safety until 1996. There is a substantial backlog of products waiting to be tested, so many pet products containing potentially harmful pesticides still make their way onto store shelves.
</p>
<p>
Last year, after reaching an agreement with manufacturers, the EPA announced that the OP chlorpyrifos—also known as Dursban—would be on a fast track for a phase-out. A second OP, diazinon, is also on the way out. An agreement between the EPA and manufacturers set the phase out at December 2002 for indoor-use products (including flea and tick products) and December 2003 for all lawn, garden, and turf products.
</p>
<p>
Reducing the Risks
</p>
<p>
The HSUS recommends the following precautions be taken to reduce the risks to pets and humans during the flea season:
</p>
<p>
Use alternatives to pesticides to control fleas and ticks: Comb your pet regularly with a flea comb, vacuum frequently and dispose of the bags immediately after use, mow areas of the lawn where your dog spends time, wash pet bedding weekly, and wash your pet with a pesticide-free pet shampoo. In addition, to protect cats from fleas and ticks, as well as a host of other outdoor hazards, cats should be kept indoors at all times.
</p>
<p>
Always consult a veterinarian before buying or using any flea or tick control product on your pet.
</p>
<p>
Never use flea and tick products designed for dogs on your cat, or vice versa.
</p>
<p>
Remember never to apply pesticides to very young, elderly, pregnant, or sick animals unless directed to do so by a veterinarian.
</p>
<p>
Always read the ingredients, instructions, and warnings on the package thoroughly.
</p>
<p>
Avoid OP-based products by looking for any of these active ingredients: chlorpyrifos, dichlorvos, phosmet, naled, tetrachlorvinphos, diazinon and malathion. Avoid products with carbamates by looking for the chemical names carbaryl and propoxur on the label.
</p>
<p>
Consider using a product with insect-growth regulators (IGRs), which are not pesticides. These will prevent the next generation of fleas but will not kill insects already on your pet. Common and effective IGR products include those made with lufenuron (found in Program® and Sentinel® and available by prescription), methoprene (in Precor®), and pyriproxyfen (in Nylar® and EcoKyl®).
</p>
<p>
You might want to consider several relatively new topical products, available through veterinarians, that are insecticides designed to have fewer toxic effects on the nervous systems of mammals: imidacloprid (found in Advantage®), fipronil (in Frontline® or Top Spot®), and selamectin (in Revolution™).
</p>
<p>
All information from <a href="http://www.hsus.org">http://www.hsus.org</a>
</p>
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